If the grid goes down, standard grid-tied solar shuts off for safety. Real backup requires a backup-capable inverter and usually a battery system. This page tells the truth about “whole-home” vs “critical loads,” and how to size it.
When the utility is down, a normal grid-tied inverter must stop exporting power to avoid energizing lines that crews believe are de-energized. Backup systems use an automatic “islanding” method to create a safe, local microgrid for your home.
Grid Up: Solar → Home Loads → (Battery) → Grid (import/export) Grid Down: Solar → Home Loads → Battery (microgrid) [NO export to utility]
“Whole home” isn’t a slogan—it’s a power and energy calculation.
Can you start and run the big loads? (HVAC, pumps, ovens, compressors)
How long can you run before you need sun again?
A common “failure mode” is a big battery paired with too little inverter power—or a powerful inverter paired with too little energy storage. We size both.
Batteries do two jobs at once:
Sol-Ark 15kW class hybrid inverter paired with LFP batteries (including Briggs & Stratton systems) for robust whole-home style performance. (Final equipment selection depends on site and permitting.)
For customers who want “multi-day certainty” during storms, heavy fog, or winter low-sun events, generator integration can be a smart layer. The best design is a system that rarely needs the generator—but has it when you truly need it.
We translate this into a clean one-line and load plan so expectations match reality.
Attach: address, electric bill, and photos of (1) roof, (2) main electrical panel, and (3) preferred battery location.